The first nucleus of a village, however, was formed during the Arabic era. It seems to have been founded in the late eleventh century and in the shadow of the Montemayor castle. This castle, built in the tenth century, is the most significant monument in this village. Parts of its walls are still in good condition, but what is known as Torre de la Reina (Queen’s Tower) is the most interesting part of the fortress. It is worth noting that as well as its impressive location, it had an underground passageway connecting it with the coast, through which the Arabs were able to transport soldiers.
A visit to the centre of the village is recommended for its characteristic pattern of winding streets, white houses and small, secluded squares. Two structures that stand out from others here are the eighteenth century Virgen del Rosario parish church and a sixteenth century palace. The former is a very simple structure with a single nave and the latter is of the Nazarite architectural style and built around a beautiful arched courtyard.
There are a number of watchtowers scattered about the municipality, some of them well preserved. They were built during the Nazarite era and centuries ago played an important defensive role. The most noteworthy are those of La Leonera, Daidín, Campanillas, Esteril and Tramores.
One of the most beautiful areas around Benahavís is Las Angosturas, a type of narrow canyon carved out by the centuries of flow from the river Guadalmina. It has recently been declared a Monument of Natural Interest, having a great variety of animal and vegetable wealth. Among the more common animals and birds to be seen here are rabbits, partridges and other bird species. One may also see, with luck, a rare deer species called the Moflón del Atlas, the only place outside Africa where this animal lives wild. Other animals here include the deer, fox, genet and mountain goat. The mountain landscape is also a perfect habitat for various species of birds of prey. The region is heavily wooded, with plenty of oaks, chestnut trees, pines, cork trees and arbutus, along with the typical Mediterranean herbs like rock rose, thyme and rosemary.
At the more southern point of Benahavís, discover the Charca de las Mozas, or Charca de los Novios (the bridal pond), as it is sometimes called, where the water runs fast and creates whirlpools.
Without doubt the most important aspect of Benahavís today is its cuisine; the village is known as the ‘dining room’ of the Costa del Sol due to its large number of restaurants, some of them among the best in Andalucía. The selection of food is wide, but the specialties of the place are pork products, lamb and game, all with one thing in common: well prepared and well cooked.
The village fair is held from 11 to 15 August. During this time there are well-attended activities culminating with a Rocío mass and a procession. The entertainment and religious elements are likewise joined in the Virgen del Rosario pilgrimage on 7 October, and the Semana Santa (Holy Week) is also a celebration with deep traditional roots in Benahavís.
Today Cádiz has a population of about 164,000 and is divided into two separate sections by the walls of Tierra Gate. One side is a modern industrial area, while the other includes typical white narrow streets, gardens and traditional small squares.
Cádiz is rich in history with various monuments, buildings and museums located throughout the city. The old central quarters are famous for their picturesque charm, and many of the buildings reflect the city’s overseas links. It is much smaller and less dynamic than many other Andalusian cities since tourism does not have a strong presence there. It does have a certain charm though, especially when the sun is setting over the Atlantic Ocean.
Cádiz is also close to the biggest National Park in Europe, Doñana, which has eagles, lynx, wild boar, deer and an innumerable amount of birds which use the marshes in the park as a migrating stopover or as a winter stay away from northern European cold weather.
The city contains many attractions to interest the visitor. These includes the beautiful Alameda de Apodaca, a viewpoint out across the sea, Genovés Park, the picturesque San Sebastián Castle, the delightful district of La Viña, the Plaza de España with its magnificent monument to the Cortes of Cádiz, the historic Church of San Felipe Neri, the Cádiz Art Gallery, which has a beautiful painting of the Immaculate Conception by Murillo, the Municipal History Museum, the Baroque Hospital de Mujeres, which has a work by El Greco of 'St. Francis in Ecstasy' and the Church of La Santa Cueva, containing works by Goya and for which Haydn composed a famous oratory. The Cathedral contains many interesting works of art, and contains the tomb of Manuel de Falla, one of Cádiz's most illustrious sons.
The Fine Arts and Archaeology Museum exhibits include a Rubens canvas and some exceptional glassware and jewellery.
Torre Tavira is the tallest and most important of the city's 160 lookout towers. Once climbed it offers a dramatic panoramic view of the city.
Halfway between Cádiz and Tarifa is Cape Trafalgar. It was in this bay that Nelson fought and won the famous sea battle against the French and Spanish in 1805, losing his life but decimating the enemy fleet and ending Napoleon’s hopes of invading England. Perhaps inevitably, there is no monument to the great battle, just a rather forlorn lighthouse perched on top of a small, rocky peninsula surrounded by sand dunes.
Along the riverside, in the old part of Cádiz town, you can find many good restaurants and bars, serving all kinds of fish, shellfish or meat dishes celebrating the traditional Andalusian cuisine. Visit the area known as La Pescadería where there is a wide range of bars and pubs of varied ambiance. On top of that, the nearby beach has become a resort where it is possible to find almost everything: flamenco taverns, bowling alleys, skating rinks, pubs, restaurants, fast-food places and discos.
Ceuta covers an area of 19 square km, has 69.000 inhabitants and is separated from the Kingdom of Morocco by a small, fortified neutral zone. It offers good shopping for jewellery and electronic devices, etc. and can be an interesting stopover before entering the African continent. Be sure to check the ferry timetable before you leave.
An interesting landmark in central Ceuta is the old stronghold of colossal Royal Walls. The external walls of the former fortress are framed on one side by a waterway (Foso de San Felipe) that acts as a moat. The sturdy walls date back to the Portuguese and Spanish periods from the 16th to 18th centuries. The ensemble of thick walls continues to undergo a restoration program.
The complex, which includes the Museo Revellín de San Ignacio, is now part of the Museum of Ceuta. The flag of Spain flies at the corner point, a good spot to take a photograph.
The modern Plaza de Armas is a pleasant promenade that passes adjacent to the Foso de San Felipe.
Many other relics dot Ceuta today. There are the archaeological remains of a late Roman Basílica and necropolis dating from the 4th century. The Arab Baths are from the 13th century. The military fortifications of Monte Hacho, constructed from the 17th to 19th centuries, are majestically positioned on the hill.
Wander around town and you may run into other old remnants as well. These may not be the greatest ruins in the world, but they are still interesting to see, especially if you are not expecting too much.
The Alcázar (of the Christian Kings) features a castle, delightful gardens and a Moorish bathhouse. This is a very popular monument.
The castle is almost a perfect square in plan of 4.100 square metres. It was rebuilt in 1327 by King Alfonso XI. The castle walls connect the four (now three) corner towers by walkways or allures protected by battlements with prism shaped blocks. Despite originating from the Christian era, the gardens are typically Moorish in design with ponds, fountains and aromatic plants. Adjacent to the gardens are the Royal Stables which extend to encompass the Gardens of the Campo Santo de los Mártires.
Córdoba's old Jewish quarter consists of a fascinating network of narrow lanes, more atmospheric and less commercialised than in Sevilla although souvenir shops have emerged.
The Jews were established in Córdoba in roman and Visigothic times and formed a brilliant intellectual group when Hasfay Ibn Shaprut, Abdul al Rahmm III, Jewish councilor attracted intellectuals to the court. Maimonides was born in 1135 and a statue to his honour stands in Tiberiadus Square.
At the centre of the quarter is the Synagogue in Calle de los Judíos, one of only three originals remaining in Spain. A Mudéjar construction dating from 1315, it was converted to a church in the 16th century and then held the Guild of Shoemakers until it was rediscovered in the 19th Century. The interior includes a gallery for women and plaster work with inscriptions from Hebrew psalms and others with plant motifs on the upper part. Its main beautifully restored wall has a semi-circular arch where a chest with the Holy Scrolls of Law used to be kept. The Judería is now known for the jewellers and silversmiths shops
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The Mezquita dates back to the 10th century when Córdoba reached its zenith under a new emir, Abd ar-Rahman 111 who was one of the great rulers of Islamic history. At this time Córdoba was the largest, most prosperous cities of Europe, outshining Byzantium and Baghdad in science, culture and the arts. The development of the Great Mosque paralleled these new heights of splendour. Today the Mezquita can be visited throughout the year for a 6 Euro entrance fee. The approach is via the Patio de los Naranjos, a classic Islamic ablutions courtyard which preserves both its orange trees and fountains. When the mosque was used for Moslem prayer, all nineteen naves were open to this courtyard allowing the rows of interior columns to appear like an extension of the tree with brilliant shafts of sunlight filtering through.
Córdoba is particularly well known for its colourful patios which are opened up to the public in early May and may be visited according to pre-established routes. The patios are internal open courtyards that form part of the typical architecture of the Andalucian town house. Córdoba takes a special pride in its patios and decorates them with flowers.
A Patio Contest is held each year, in which home-owners compete for the prize awarded to the most beautifully decorated patio. The map provided by the Tourist Office will help you find the competing courtyards. This is not to be missed for those who love flowers and gardens or are just interested in nosing inside the patios of private houses. It is a serious competition and not an event put on for tourists or visitors from other towns: almost all the Patios are closed from 14.00 to 17.00 just when the day tripper would visit them.
200 million years ago the lump of limestone, which we call Gibraltar, was forced up from the sea bed when Africa barged into Europe and it now remains as a narrow peninsula stuck to the end of the Iberian Peninsula.
For the person interested in natural history, whether it is on land or sea, Gibraltar is incredibly rich and full of surprises at any time of the year. It is a combination of geographical location, climate and a unique history, together with the preservation of areas of habitat, which has made it a tiny paradise for wildlife.
Gibraltar has always been of special significance to the numerous peoples and civilisations which have visited or occupied it over the ages, from the Neanderthal period, through the Classical and on to the Moorish, Spanish and the present British occupations.
The Moorish occupation is, by far, the longest in Gibraltar's recorded history, having lasted from 711 to 1309 and then from 1350 to 1462, a total of 710 years and Gibraltar is reputed to have derived its present day name as a breakdown of Djebel Tarik, the Rock of Tarik.
The Moorish Castle Complex is made up of various buildings, gates, fortified walls and its most dominant features, The Tower of Homage and The Gate House. The former is an impressive sight, clearly visible to all visitors, not only because of its striking construction but also because of its dominant and strategic position. Little is known of its actual history but some chroniclers claim that its origins date to the 8th Century when The Castle, in its simplest form, is reputed to have been completed by Tarik. In the early 14th Century The Castle was rebuilt to its present form. It, therefore, stands now on the actual site where the very first Moorish fortification ever constructed on European soil stood.
After the Great Siege of 1783, development of Gibraltar's military defence began; a process that continued throughout the years until the Second World War. Visitors can appreciate the great feat of engineering achieved at the Great Siege Tunnels, as indeed in all the other tunnels and chambers that have been dug in the Rock.
The Military Heritage Centre is housed in one of the many chambers found in the Rock. In fact this particular Battery, known as Princess Caroline's Battery, is named after King George II's third daughter and was built in 1732. The armoury displays a selection of weapons used by the British Army in Gibraltar and there are also relics dating from the Great Siege of 1783 to the present day. In the Memorial Chamber, visitors have the opportunity to honour and remember all those men and women who have over the ages dedicated themselves to the service of the Nation in the Armed Forces. You will find the Roll Call of all the Regiments that have served in Gibraltar since 1704.
Europa Point is the southernmost tip of Gibraltar, and the home to the lighthouse. This lighthouse is the most southerly of all Trinity House Lighthouses, being the only one outside the United Kingdom.
St Michael's Cave has interested visitors to Gibraltar ever since the Romans. The Cathedral Cave was long believed to be bottomless, probably giving birth to the story that Gibraltar was linked to Africa by a subterranean passage over 15 miles (24 Km) long under the Straits of Gibraltar. During World War II the cave was prepared as an emergency hospital, but was never used as such. Whilst blasting an alternative entrance to the cave, a further series of deeply descending chambers ending in a mini lake were discovered and named Lower St Michael's Cave. The Cathedral Cave is opened to visitors and makes a unique auditorium for concerts, ballets, drama and presentations.
At the Apes' Den (Queen's Gate) and in the area of the Great Siege Tunnels you have the rare opportunity to see semi-wild primates at close quarters. If you let them, these monkeys will be their captivating selves and show you aspects of their everyday lives.
The Apes are a species of tailless monkeys called Barbary Macaques. These Macaques can be found in Morocco and Algeria, with those in Gibraltar being the only free-living monkeys in Europe today. Please do not touch them; they may bite if frightened or annoyed!
Every corner of the Rock oozes with history and it could be worthwhile finding out a little more by taking a guided tour. You might learn, for example, about the spot where Admiral Nelson's body was brought ashore after his victory at the Battle of Trafalgar, or of the tunnel from where General Eisenhower masterminded the invasion of North Africa in World War II.
The walls surrounding the city correspond to each chapter of its history: the most ancient being the Cadima Fortress from the period of the Ziries. However, the city’s real life stood not here but at its gateways, through which everything would pass, where merchants would meet and news be exchanged.
Granada has its usual quotient of churches, museums etc., typical of a southern European city. Granada, however, also has the Alhambra, which is a massive castle constructed over many centuries consisting of gardens, fortifications and sumptuous palaces. It was the home of many of the Arabic Sultans who ruled the whole province so for centuries it received the optimum in interior decoration and architecture. If you read the Koran it continually repeats the idea that heaven is a garden with running water. From this perspective you could say that the Alhambra is an Arabic attempt to create heaven on earth. Nowadays it receives 8000 visitors per day and is Spain's most visited monument.
The Albaicín is the old Arabic quarter located on the hill opposite the Alhambra. It is characterised by cobbled stoned streets with white washed houses. Despite several centuries of neglect and architectural barbarities allowed by the town council it still retains a strong Arabic feeling; (the Arabic population was ethnically cleansed just over 500 years ago). There are many squares with terrazas and places to laze about and have a bite to eat. The Albaicín is an oil painter's paradise and almost at every turn of the head there is an attractive view, almost always involving glimpses of the Alhambra. If you go to a shop which sells any of the typical ‘granadino’ pottery (white background with strong blue shapes) you will be sure to read the oft quoted refrain: ‘Give him alms woman, because there is nothing as bad as being blind in Granada’. Go to Mirador de San Nicolás and you will see what they mean.
The hill, La Sabica, preserves on its peak the Alhambra itself, while on its shady side towards the river Genil, it supports the barrio of the Churra, stretching towards the east via the fuente del Avellano and the cuesta de los Chinos.
On the opposite bank, towards the south, its slopes dip to the Antequeruela and then on to the Realejo and the Campo del Príncipe. Indeed, what would be Granada without its hills?
The Sierra Nevada Mountain Range occupies a considerable surface area of the provinces of Granada and Almería, with approximately 170,000 hectares being National Park, and includes 60 municipalities in the nature reserves of El Marquesado del Zenete, Valle de Lecrín, Sierra Nevada Poniente, the river basin of the Nacimiento River and la Alpujarra. The Mulhacén, at 3,481 meters is the highest summit on the Iberian Península but there are 20 others that exceed 3,000 metres, among them being el Veleta y la Alcazaba del Mulhacén.
Located in the foothills of the Cerro del Trevenque, and reached by a footpath with magnificent views, is the Botánico de la Cortijuela (Botanical Gardens), whose function is to generate, protect, conserve and investigate the flora of the mountain range. It also includes a nursery that encourages student studies.
The traditional ceremony of Granada is the Corpus Christi Parade where the streets are covered with flowers and people sing and dance all night. Granada's official festival lasts for eight days in June. It starts with the Eucharist Procession when a religious figure is carried from the cathedral through the city streets on the back of a carriage filled with flowers. The crowds throw herbs and flowers onto the ground as the procession arrives and then follow the funfair to Almanjar on the outskirts of town. Locals put on their traditional Andalusian suits and dresses, take their carefully groomed horses and carriages and set out to enjoy the stalls, rides, games and competitions. The wine flows freely and there's singing and dancing from late afternoon to early morning. The year's best series of bullfights are scheduled for these eight days and a special bus service is laid on to take the public to the fair.
If you plan to visit Granada in the summer, remember that it gets VERY hot!
The Sierra de Grazalema, believe or not, is the rainiest spot in Spain. Its mountains trap the humidity coming from the Atlantic and give it a lush and very pleasant temperature in the summer as opposed to the surrounding countryside where it can easily reach 37ºC. Its heavy rainfall and limestone terrain have created a landscape rich in slopes, grottoes, caves and winding gorges.
Visit the region to enjoy outdoor pursuits and nature; a special protection zone for birds, the park covers approximately 51,000 hectares, home to one of the largest nesting colonies of tawny vultures in Europe, several species of eagle and other birds such as the goshawk and the Egyptian vulture. One of Europe’s largest bat colonies can also be found here.
The Sierra de Grazalema is famous for its marvellous trekking routes which make it an ideal place for nature lovers and all those who enjoy, camping, flora and fauna, bird watching or mountain biking. There are many excursions available and on one route you can find a rare specie of pine tree which existed during the last ice age; a virtual living fossil which only grows at altitudes of over 1,000 metres.
Whilst the topography is very accidental, the views are simply majestic.
Istán is a low profile village with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and has not, as yet, been tamed by tourists. Considered to be the gateway to the natural park of the Sierra de las Nieves, it has always been associated with water. The relaxing sound of this sparkling liquid is heard in each and every one of the corners of the village, which still preserves its Moorish roots. Its urban design bears witness to its Andalusi past: steep, narrow streets of whitewashed houses with Arabic roof tiling, particularly in the upper district of the village, where part of a tower from the walls of the mediaeval castle still stands.
As with so many mountain villages, creations of a time and place in which the only practical means of transport was the mule and the packhorse, Istán's streets are narrow and unsuited to the motor car. The only sensible way to experience it is on foot.
There are a number of restaurants and bars in Istán, serving an excellent selection of tapas, and it does boast one hotel, though it had to wait until 1998 to acquire it. Whether that heralds an influx of foreign visitors who may become the nucleus of a large expatriate community remains to be seen, but for the time being Istán remains closer to its roots than many of its cousins.
The town also stands close to the huge reservoir created by the Presa de la Concepción Dam, which was built in 1972 and provides drinking water to towns all along the coast. The water feeding Istán's fountains, however, is the pure, unprocessed mountain variety which was much prized long before the coming of the dam. Just outside the village, where it cascades freely from the rocks, motorists often stop to fill their jugs and cans
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Separated from the village by several kilometres, El Bornoque is one of the Istán’s most interesting places. A ring of hundred-year-old cork oaks surround the majestic Castaño Santo (Holy Chestnut). Recognised as a natural monument by the Junta de Andalucía, this tree with a diameter of 13 and one half metres hides an interesting legend among its roots. Locals say that several hundred years ago a monk was being chased through the area by a group of unbelievers who wanted to bring him to justice. When he arrived at the ancient tree, he hid among the roots and saved his life. From then on he offered a mass every day in the shade of the branches.
Very little remains of ancient Istán, merely the crumbling remains of a Moorish tower hidden in a side street; two associated villages – Arboto and Daidín – were erased from the landscape so effectively that their precise locations are no longer known, but the village of Istán still stands and maintains the timeless air that outsiders find so appealing.
It is a bustling little city; a labyrinth of narrow streets, shops, coffee bars and historic buildings and due to the Spanish lack of street maps it can be a bit of an adventure negotiating your way through.
The old and the new meet on Calle Larios, Plaza de la Constitución and Calle Granada, which form the backbone of the shopping area and the thriving nightlife. The narrow side streets form a confusing maze of alleys crammed with tapas bars and bodegas - old fashioned wine shops brimming with casks including the local sweet wine which is similar to Port. At weekends the area is full of young people going out to enjoy the thriving nightlife in one of the cities many bars, bar de copas (wine bars), or nightclubs. Locals often do not go out until midnight and will continue until morning light, catching some breakfast on their way home.
The best way to see Málaga is definitely on foot, and a good place to start would be the Paseo del Parque. The route from the Fuente de las Tres Gracias brings us down to the Casona del Parque, the present home of the Town Hall, and the Palacio de la Aduana -from there head up to the Alcazaba and the Gibralfaro Castle.
The Paseo del Parque is a large avenue that runs between the port and the old quarter of the city; its sides lined with gardens it provides ample shade from the heat of the day. It is popular with locals for just sitting in the afternoon and watching the world go by whilst breathing in the perfume of the jasmine which arches over the paths around the gardens.
Behind the Paseo del Parque lies Málaga's famous Cathedral, locally named La Manquita - which means "the little one armed lady". Its styles incorporate Renaissance, Baroque and Neo-classical because of the length of time it took to build. The Cathedral has only one tower; building was halted on the second tower due to lack of money. Inside there are fine carvings of saints in the choir area, a gothic altar and a statue of the Virgin Mary, which was presented to the city by Ferdinand and Isabella (the King and Queen) after the city was re-captured from the Moors.
Some five minutes walk from the Cathedral is Alcazaba, a 15th Century Moorish fort. The fort rambles across a hill which used to form part of the shore line, before the land that now forms the port was recaptured from the sea. Next to the fort is a 1st Century Roman Theatre which is currently under restoration, the job being made all the more difficult because much of the theatre's masonry was used by the Moors in the construction of Alcazaba.
At the Plaza de la Merced find the house in which Málaga’s greatest son, Pablo Picasso, was born. Palacio de Buenavista is nearby and has been converted into the beautiful Picasso Museum.
The Gibralfaro is a Moorish castle crowning the top of a hill that overlooks the city. The name comes from the Moorish ‘Jebel’ meaning hill and ‘Faro’ meaning lighthouse. The road that leads to the top is long and winding; if you feel like walking it will certainly help keep you fit, otherwise there are buses that run from the town centre or you can take one of Málaga's abundance of taxis. Once at the summit you will have a superb vista of the City including the Bullring, the Port and the beaches surrounding the city. The castle is today converted into a beautiful Parador and the gardens are a perfect place to sit and take in the fantastic panoramic views.
At Easter the city comes alive for Semana Santa (Holy Week). The celebrations are some of the largest in Spain and draw visitors from all over Spain and abroad, often to the extent that the city's population swells to nearly double in size.
The Summer Fair (Málaga Feria) is the city’s other major annual event. Held every August it is claimed to be the second largest fair in Europe. For one week city folk and visitors celebrate in traditional Andalusian style with processions, music and dancing. There is plenty to eat and drink and the streets are full of people enjoying the celebrations.
Málaga has no shortage of places to eat and drink, and, though it's hardly a gourmet paradise, the city has a justified reputation for its seafood; its greatest claim to fame being undoubtedly its fried fish ,acknowledged as the best in Spain. You'll find many fish restaurants grouped around the Alameda, although for some of the very best you need to head out to the suburbs of Pedregalejo and El Palo.
The city's position, well east of the airport, and inside the ring road that carries traffic around it, means that most visitors to the Costa del Sol rarely visit the heart of Málaga itself. All this may be about to change as the city has embarked on a costly face-lift, with plans to create hotel-lined promenades along the beaches to the east and west of the centre. Away from the seafront glitz, however, it's to be hoped that the city's unique and vibrant character will survive the development unscathed.
What is now the second largest city in the province of Málaga hosted its first few settlers in the Paleolithic period, as is shown by the tools and weapons found at the place called Coto Correa, in the area of Las Chapas.
There is no trace of any other civilisation until late in the Carthaginian era, of which there are the remains of what may have been a trading post at Río Verde, some five kilometres from Marbella.
Rome also left notable evidence of its passage through these lands, such as the Río Verde villa, the Guadalmina bathhouses and various materials found in the historic district of the city. Some students of the subject do not discard the possibility that the nucleus of present-day Marbella was indeed founded by the Romans. While the ruins of towers and walls of the castle that are still standing are from the Muslim era, the lowest part of the construction is Roman, as are the foundations of several buildings on Los Naranjos square in the central district.
In view of the present appearance of the city it is hard to imagine that in the nineteenth century Marbella was one the most heavily developed mining regions in Spain, with blast furnaces exploiting the iron from the mines in the Sierra Blanca range. Within a century the city went from being the standard of reference for industry to being one of the highest-level tourism destinations in the world.
A metropolitan city with vitality and finesse, a modern coastal town with an abundance of quality restaurants, nightclubs, art galleries and exclusive boutiques, an enclave for luxury and quality tourism; Marbella caters for just about every taste but it also has a soul and a traditional pace of life.
To appreciate its real character a visit to the old town will reveal the labyrinth of backstreets, white washed houses, restaurants, shops, boutiques, old churches and squares surrounded by the ruins of an old Arab wall. There in the small alleys filled with ceramic and colourful flower pots hanging on the walls, take a walk around La Casa del Corregidor (once home to one of the top legal minds in Marbella). On your travels why not visit the beautiful Los Naranjos (Orange Tree Square); with the scent of oranges always floating in the air. La Iglesia de la Encarnación, one of the oldest churches in the region is also located here.
In the centre of town Avenida del Mar runs between La Alameda Park and the Paseo (coastal road) and is arguably the most attractive promenade on the Costa del Sol. It is flanked by restaurants and bars and running through the centre are numerous sculptures by Salvador Dalí.
Other notable places of interest include the Bazán Hospital, The Museum of Mechanical Art and The Bonsai Museum.
The municipality of Marbella has a very well deserved reputation for the output of its kitchens. Several of the most acclaimed restaurants on the Costa del Sol are located in Marbella, where international haute cuisine combining innovation and tradition has found a home.
The Feria de San Bernabé in the first week of June is the celebration that is the most deeply rooted in tradition of all those on the festive calendar of Marbella. The pilgrimage to La Cruz de Juanar, an emblematic location in the mountain range of the same name, takes place in May and the traditional “tostón” (chestnut roast) is on 1 November but it is during the Semana Santa (Holy Week) that Marbella shows the most truly Andalusian side of its character.
Besides containing the largest concentration of golf courses in Spain (and a large part of Europe), luxury hotels, leisure ports, unusually sophisticated restaurants and establishments, a casino and fine beaches distributed along its more than 20 kilometres of coast, Marbella also has an extraordinarily interesting historical and artistic heritage.
Part Berber, part Arab, part African, Marrakesh is the heartbeat of Morocco, where palaces and monuments of unrivalled refinement sit calmly alongside the snake charmers and Gnaouan drums pulsing constantly from Djemâa el Fna Square -- the most exuberant marketplace in the world. Literally translated, Djemaa el Fna means ‘assembly of the dead’ and refers to a time when sinners, Christians and criminals were executed and their heads were left to serve as an example to others. Times have changed and today the square is a virtual festival of acrobats, dancers, fortune-tellers, musicians, and public scribes with their black umbrellas.
Founded in 1062, Marrakesh was once the capital of an empire that stretched from Toledo to Senegal, and is formed by three very different neighbourhoods; the Medina, Hivernage and Gueliz. Marrakech riads are located in the medina, along with the ancient workshops, or souks, of the artisans, in the heart of the city.
Seducing lovers of traditional Moroccan architecture, Marrakesh has a magnificent collection of mosques, gardens, palaces, and Koranic schools and is still encircled by ancient ramparts that were constructed to protect the medina that once hid Sultan palaces, mansions of rich merchants, and some of the most lively bazaars in the world, many of which still exist today. Just north of the Djemâa el Fna Square is a lively souk selling everything from stylish dresses to medicinal herbs.
The terraces overlooking the main plaza of Djemaa el-Fna are in high demand from sunset onwards. There are many so you can afford to be selective. As a rule of thumb, restaurants located in the medina are generally the least expensive and offer a lively ambiance. Many restaurants don't list prices and you might want to ask the price of a dish before ordering in order to avoid any unpleasant surprises.
Marrakech monuments are continually being renovated as a personal project of the King who happens to be in love with this city. Gardens are well maintained and more and more land is being put aside for parks as the government plans ahead for the city's expansion. As tourism is such an important feeder of the Marrakeshi economy, the number of tourism police is higher than ever, making visitors to the Pink City feel secure and at ease.
Located next to the Medersa Ben Youssef, the Museum of Marrakesh is housed in the Dar M’Nebhi Palace and is one of the most beautiful structures remaining from the end of the nineteenth century. Contemporary art expos of photography, paintings and ceramics are housed on a regular basis; covered by a domed tent supported with columns, the large courtyard measures over 2000 square meters. Artfully hidden in the medina, the Palace is a must see!
Ali Ben Youssef Mosque is the largest mosque in Marrakesh and was originally constructed in the second half of the 12th century. Later the mosque was destroyed and rebuilt several times, each time altering its size and changing in architectural style. The most recent renovation was completed in the Merenid style (19th century).
The vast and dazzling Koranic school was founded by the Merinid sultan Abou el-Hassan (1331-1349) and is one of the most remarkable monuments in Marrakesh. Architecturally speaking the mosque is amazing. Refined and simple at the same time…look everywhere, the floor, ceiling, detail of the arches, how the light plays with the colours….sculpted wood where you can still see traces of the original paint.
Dating from the twelfth century, the Koutoubia Minaret measures 69 meters (as tall as Notre Dame in Paris), and is the first thing seen by visitors to Marrakech. Each arch and façade of the Koutoubia Mosque is different. The surrounding gardens include the Almoravid Palace remains as well as those of a mosque that was destroyed because it was not perfectly aligned with Mecca. Non Muslims cannot visit the interior of the mosque or minaret.
Hiring a guide for private tours of the monuments would be prudent and you can always find an official guide at the entrances. It is a good idea to agree on the cost before beginning your tour.
Undisputedly cosmopolitan, yet respectful of its culture and traditions, Marrakesh has put itself on the short list of sophisticated travellers. Stylish lounges and restaurants have sprouted up everywhere. Travelling art expositions have added Marrakesh as a venue in recent years and cultivated art lovers will be pleasantly surprised by the quality of choice this city now offers.
The journey along the old road between Mijas and Benalmádena, among the pines and little chalets that mark the route, is like a continuous balcony overlooking the sea. During high season the village can be crowded with tourists visiting from along the coast. Higher in the town the streets turn into flights of steps and the higher you climb the quieter it becomes and the cheaper the cafés, restaurants and bars are. Also look out for the Mineral water spring at the entrance to the village.
Once in the village, experience the spectacular views of the coast and surrounding heavily wooded mountains from 490 meters above sea level. There are no main roads here, instead a web of quaint narrow cobbled streets complete with terraces overflowing with geraniums, red tiled roofs and archways. Simply stunning!
Like Ronda just over the mountaintop, the village dates back to distant time and there are two Mudejar churches here to prove it, as well as the sanctuary of the patron saint of Mijas, La Virgen de la Peña. According to legend the image of the virgin remained concealed for eight centuries, until June, 2 1586, when it appeared before two shepherd boys who had been led there by a pigeon. Another story says that an image of the Virgin was found concealed in a recess in the tower where it had been hidden for 500 years. In 1656 work started on the sanctuary cave, which is nowadays always decorated with flowers and pictures as offerings from thousands of people.
Mijas has the country's only square bullring as well as some interesting churches and other monuments giving insight to its Roman, Moorish and Spanish past: The Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción, a 16thcentury church built on the former site of a castle, The Ermita del Puerto, constructed in 1875 after a promise made to God by an older woman, who said that she would build a shrine if God gave her a son. God did indeed give her a son and the woman fulfilled her promise!
The Mijas Town Hall has recently commissioned a building, Plaza de la Libertad, 2, as a 'House Museum’, showing how various rooms used to be furnished in old Spanish houses. Not only that, but there are other rooms filled with various machinery from the local area, some used for wine making, and other tools and machinery used in general agriculture. It is well worth a visit, and there is no entrance fee.
Re-discovered in the 1960’s, Mijas Pueblo has become home to people of many different nationalities and the impact can be appreciated via the international cuisine on offer, cosmopolitan clubs and the influence of foreign culture and the arts in general.
There is a thriving arts and crafts movement in Mijas, particularly linen and wicker items and the locally made bread and honey is definitely worth trying. It is also renowned for its artisans who make baskets and plates with ‘esparto’ (a type of straw) and miniature figurines made out of matches.
Morocco offers a wide choice of climates and landscapes, from snow covered cedar trees to oases in the scorching desert sun. No matter how well-seasoned a traveller you are, you'll find plenty to see and do: fine Atlantic and Mediterranean beaches, desert excursions, wondrous imperial cities, Islamic landmarks, wild Joujoukan trance music, Roman antiquities, resort facilities, mountain villages and towering sand dunes. The hospitality of Moroccans is well known but, if you don't know anyone in the country, it is very strongly recommended you take a guide for any tour or visit; this will make your journey much more enjoyable.
Morocco has been called "a cold country with a hot sun." Although the sun shines almost year-round here, the best time to visit is in the spring, from late March to mid-June, when the sky is generally a beautiful deep blue, washed clear by the winter rain, and beautiful spring flowers blanket the landscape. Winter is the best time to see the desert and most of the south; summer is the best time to explore the High Atlas. Non-Muslim travellers will probably want to avoid Morocco during Ramadan - a month long fast during which all cafés and nearly all restaurants are closed during the day and the pace of work is reduced.
Fez has long been recognized as Morocco's intellectual and spiritual nerve centre. The Arab capital of Morocco - as opposed to Meknes, the Berber capital - it is an ancient centre of learning, culture, and craftsmanship, home to the oldest university in the West and the world's largest still-functioning medieval quarter, with a population of 60,000 (one-tenth of the city's total).
Marrakesh has acquired a number of nicknames over the years - Pearl of the South, Jewel of the South and The Rose City. The pearl and the jewel symbolize its importance as the centre of Morocco ever since it was a trading and resting place on the crossroads of ancient caravan routes from Timbuktu. The rose attests to a city still painted entirely in salmon pink, in keeping with the red-clay earth below. Part Berber, part Arab, part African, Marrakesh is the heartbeat of Morocco, where palaces and monuments of unrivalled refinement sit calmly alongside the snake charmers and Gnaouan drums pulsing constantly from Djemâa el Fna Square - the most exuberant marketplace in the world.
Morocco has an amazing wealth of historic sites, ancient Kasbahs, medieval walled cities, formidable desert fortresses, and ornate mosques and minarets. The degree to which historical Morocco has been preserved is remarkable. Many of these structures are at the very least several hundred years old. Some, such as Fez's Medersas, are almost 1,000 years old. The Qarawiyin Mosque is more than 1,200 years old, and the Muwahid Fortress at Talat-n-Yacoub dates to the 11th century. In addition to these monumental buildings there are innumerable historical small sites - villages, hamlets, unknown saints' tombs - that dot the landscape, all of which have been inhabited and used for centuries. As you travel, you may wonder how it is that the tides of change appear to have somehow missed Morocco as they swept across the globe.
Buses serve most towns in Morocco and bus fares are inexpensive. The national bus company, C.T.M., serves all major cities, and there are many other smaller companies. C.T.M. buses and some others are comfortable, but they also include French language television; so if you'd rather ride in peace than travel through Morocco to the tune of French films, you might be better off with one of the less luxurious bus lines. In each city the bus station - known as the gare routière - is generally near the edge of town.
Fez connects well by road with Tangier to the north and with Meknes, Rabat, Casablanca, Marrakesh, Essaouira, Agadir, Ouarzazate, and Taroudant to the southwest and south. Most of these roads are good, two-lane highways with hard, sandy shoulders for passing.
Morocco's rail system, ONCF, is excellent, albeit limited in the south. Most trains are air-conditioned, and many have telephones. Trains are divided into first class (première classe) and second class (deuxième classe). First class is a very good buy compared to its counterpart in Europe, but second class is comfortable, too. Long-distance trains seat six people to a compartment in first class, eight to a compartment in second class.
By far the biggest challenge you'll face in Morocco is a shopping trip. Remember that making a deal is a way of life here - an art form. Everyone bargains, sometimes over tea, and it is considered serious business. Although anything goes among merchants, the usual practice with tourists is to ask roughly double or even triple an item's true value. To arrive at an agreeable price, halve the offer and then fine-tune the amount. Many travellers leave Morocco without buying things they really want simply because the bargaining process is too daunting. Think in terms of finding yourself a great souvenir rather than go home empty-handed, and things are bound to fall into place.
Some useful phrases for your arsenal:
Sh'hal hedi bil dirhams? - How much is this?
Rali bezzef - It costs too much.
M'andish floos - I have no money [often helpful]
Ma'es salema - Good-bye!
The old quarter of the town is still virtually unchanged with narrow, winding streets and whitewashed houses with wrought iron terraces overflowing with geraniums, on which a canary can sometimes be heard singing.
However, the heart of Nerja is its spectacular Balcón de Europa, the ‘Balcony of Europe’, a magnificent promenade along the edge of a towering cliff, once the site of the great Moorish castle, with sweeping panoramic views of the Mediterranean and the small coves and beaches below, set against an awesome backdrop of hazy blue mountains.
The town's monuments include the 17th century Church of El Salvador, situated in a prime location in the old part of the town, opposite the Balcony of Europe and close to what used to be the Guard’s Tower and Castillo Bajo, The Ermita de Ntra. Sra. de las Angustias, El Acueducto del Águila (The Eagle Aquaduct) and the Torre de Macaca.
Nerja's most spectacular attraction however, is undoubtedly its fascinating caves, located just three kilometres from the centre of town. They include archaeological treasures such as paintings over 20,000 years old and other pre-historic remains. This huge grotto, with towering stalagmites that reach the ceiling is reminiscent of a gothic cathedral and it is home to the world’s longest stalactite at 63m. One of the enormous natural caverns has been transformed into a concert hall, where many performances are staged during the summer.
There are plenty of restaurants and cafés in Nerja to choose from offering a number of typical local dishes such as pimentón con pescado y almejas (paprika with fish and clams), ajoblanco con uvas (a chilled soup with grapes), calabazas fritas con sardinas (fried squash with sardines), and to end the evening in style you can hire a horse-drawn carriage to explore the most romantic corners of the town.
The Refugio de Juanar, originally the private hunting lodge of the wealthy Larios family, and a favoured retreat of King Alfonso XIII, is now a hotel popular with tourists and hunters.
If you're tired of the artificial side of Marbella and don't want to spend a lot of time in the car to get away from it all, then look no further - Juanar is the perfect choice. The refuge itself is a small and charming 24-room hotel that you can use as a base to explore the many peaks in the area with breathtaking panoramic views of the coast, the mountains and the inland plains. The Juanar forest itself has well indicated tracks and is a paradise for everyone who loves to be in contact with the natural environment.
The kitchens of the Refugio de Juanar are renowned for their presentation of succulent dishes inspired by the surrounding countryside. Foods of the hunt are a speciality; pickled partridge, rabbit, deer, pheasant, quail and mountain goat.
The town is located on a plateau some 750 metres above sea level and seems to be divided into two areas by the famous Tajo de Ronda (Ronda Cliff), a gorge 100 metres deep and about 500 metres long with the River Guadalevín running along its floor. The western part of this plateau forms an area of cliffs similar to the one that forms the Tajo itself. Beginning here, an extensive rural landscape opens up that stretches to the mountains that make up the highlands that give the region its name.
The 18th century Puente Nuevo (New Bridge) signals a dramatic entrance to the town. It stands 100m tall and is a crossing point over the Tajo gorge. It is certainly one of the best known and most photographed sites in Southern Spain.
Apart from the Puente Nuevo, the most famous building in the town is the Plaza de Toros, one of the oldest bullrings in the world; the attraction includes a museum of memorabilia. It was built in the memory of Pedro Romero who is thought to be the godfather of bullfighting; rumoured to have killed over 6,000 bulls! Every year the Corrida Goyesca is viewed by millions on television and the lucky or ‘less squeamish’ depending on your point of view, watch it live; the Spanish equivalent to soccer's world cup final.
Modern Ronda (largely built in the 18th century) is the quarter to the north of the El Tajo gorge and called El Mercadillo, alongside which is the Plaza de España, the site of Ronda's recently built Parador, offering a spectacular walkway along the river gorge with superb views of the countryside below. This walkway leads to Ronda's lovely ‘Mirador’, with colourful flower beds and a railing for sightseers to lean against as they gaze into the distance. You can walk from the Plaza de España and the bullring up the Calle Nueva, Ronda's pedestrian shopping district, where some of the shops still retain their traditional appearance and style.
The decidedly mountain character of Ronda inevitably defines its local cuisine, among whose most traditional dishes are conejo a la rondeña (rabbit Ronda-style), and guisos de pata de cerdo (pig’s foot stews). This municipality’s cookbook is completed with tasty migas rondeñas (the local variety of a dish made of fried bread crumbs), seasoned with local chorizo sausage and sopas de castañas de la sierra (mountain-style chestnut soups). As for confectionery, yemas del Tajo (a pastry made from egg yolks) occupy first place. Products made in cloistered convents, especially in the Mercedarian and Franciscan convents, are less well known, but no less delicious.
The May fair, which is held in the second fortnight of that month by authority of a Royal Decree of the Catholic Monarchs issued in 1487, is considered one of the most ancient events in Andalucía of its type, which is of agriculture and livestock. The fiesta begins with the opening of the Tapas fair, and every day there are demonstrations of goat milking and exhibitions of different breeds of livestock. There are events to test the fighting qualities of young bulls, olive oil sampling, the annual show dog competition at Llano Margarita, and the ‘Ciudad de Ronda’ purebred Spanish horse show followed by a dressage exhibition.
There are several hotels and private accommodation in Ronda, but it is difficult to find a vacancy at the height of tourist season. Book well in advance, as this town is a magnate for visitors and during high season it is sometimes obvious that the town struggles to cope with the influx of many thousands of tourists.
Sevilla lies on the banks of the Guadalquivir River and is one of the largest historical centres in Europe. It has the Minaret of La Giralda, the Cathedral (one of the largest in Christendom), and the Alcázar Palace. Part of its treasure includes Casa de Pilatos, (the Town Hall), the Fine Arts Museum (the second largest picture gallery in Spain), plus convents, parish churches and palaces.
It has hosted two international exhibitions (1929 and 1992) and is the administrative capital of Andalucía. The quarter of Triana on the other side of the river, La Macarena, Santa Cruz and San Bartolomé, the street of Las Sierpes, plus La Maestranza Bullring, María Luisa Park and the riverside walks are all representative images of Sevilla.
For all its important monuments and fascinating history, Sevilla is universally famous for being a joyous town. While the Sevillians are known for their wit and sparkle, the city itself is striking for its vitality. It is the largest town in Southern Spain - the city of Carmen, Don Juan and Fígaro.
The Sevillians are great actors and put on an extraordinary performance at their annual Feria de Abril, a week-long party of drink, food and dance which takes place day and night in more than a thousand especially mounted tents. But above all it allows the men to parade on their fine horses and the women to dance in brilliantly coloured gypsy dresses.
Immediately before that is Holy Week, Semana Santa, a religious festival where hooded penitents march In long processions followed by huge baroque floats on which sit images of the Virgin or Christ, all surrounded by cheerful crowds. Both spring events are well worth experiencing.
In Sevilla, you will want to visit the old city, with the Cathedral and the Giralda Tower at its heart. (You can climb the steps inside the tower for a magnificent view of the city). Very close by are the Royal Mudéjar Palace, known as the Alcázar, with marvellous gardens, and the Santa Cruz quarter, with cramped streets, flowered balconies, richly decorated facades and hidden patios. Other sights not to be missed are, in the old city, the Casa de Pilatos, a large sixteenth-century mansion where Mudéjar, Gothic and Renaissance styles blend harmoniously amidst exuberant patios and gardens and, crossing the Triana bridge over the large Guadalquivir River, the lively popular quarter of Triana with charming narrow streets around the church of Santa Ana and traditional ceramic factories.
Don't miss out on the tapas! The city is credited with their invention and has more than a thousand bars where the choice of food is virtually unlimited, from seafood to ham and sausage, from vegetable to cheese. The Sevillians actually make a meal of them, moving from bar to bar and trying one dish at a time.
This reputation was only enhanced when, in the 1920s, it became an international zone hosting eight countries, three languages, two currencies and a barrel load of illegal high jinks. This wild playground of permissiveness was a siren call to the 1950s literary riff-raff who promptly turned their backs on the white-picket-fence-and-apple-pie life and went to smoke hashish and drink themselves stupid in the hot spicy city sandwiched between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic.
Today, Tangier is a lot less disreputable but a lot more aware of the value of the tourist dollar but don't let the hordes of tourist hustlers and pickpockets put you off. It still retains its faded mongrel charm - not entirely Moroccan, European or African but a heady mix of all three - and the old world of the bazaar is still intact in the form of the Grand Socco with its makeshift shops, snake charmers, musicians and storyteller.
Built on the slope of a hill, Tangier overhangs the ocean and is divided into several parts: the port mainly intended for the traffic of passengers, the beach, which wraps around a large part of the city and where Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean meet, and the medina and the modern city.
Visit the white-walled Kasbah and the Sultan's Garden with its Moorish fountain, fragrant herbs and shrubs, and orange and lemon trees. What better place to relax than the harem-coolness of the Kasbah, and at the end of the day soak up that erotic Moroccan liquid light that French painter Delacroix painted over and over again and that makes an appearance in every love story set in the Middle East.
This little fishing town was the first point of the Moorish invasion of Southern Spain in AD711 when pirates in the area were said to have extracted a fee or ‘Tarif’ from sailors wanting to pass through the straits of Gibraltar.
The Castle was constructed in AD960 on the orders of Caliph Abderraman 111; its irregular oblong architecture has roman influence giving rise to the theory that it was built on the remains of a roman fort.
In the 13th Century Guzmán el Bueno occupied the castle, now named after him. Islamic invaders tried to take the castle by kidnapping his son and threatening to kill him if he did not relinquish the castle. Guzmán is said to have thrown down his own sword for the kidnappers to kill his son rather than to surrender. If you visit during August you may be able to witness the local people re-enacting this event in the castle.
Today the town is invaded by peaceful crowds of tourists during the Andalucian folk festival and again during the windsurfing world championships.
Known as the wind capital of Europe, Tarifa has sumptuous white, soft sandy beaches, crystalline emerald colour water and a young and relaxed atmosphere due to thousands of windsurfing fans that converge on the area almost all year round.
The narrow cobbled streets, tumbling jasmine and beautiful wrought-iron that decorates many monuments and benches make Tarifa old town a charming place for a stroll. The original castle city walls of this ancient town blend effortlessly with the whitewashed houses and there are plenty of little tapas bars in the old town just to the east of the Alameda gardens. On the main street called Batalla del Salado you can stroll through numerous surf shops and trendy clothes shops.
There is the magnificent Church of San Mateo in the town centre and in nearby Calle de los Azogues the buildings date back to the 16th and 17th century. The Municipal Museum is also well worth a visit. It is located near the town hall in the square officially named Plaza de Santa Maria but locally known as the square of the ‘Little Frog’.
Meanwhile, away from this bustling town on the hills behind Tarifa, are hundreds of wind turbines generating enough power for this small town; it has one of the largest wind farms in Europe.
Walk around the streets of Tarifa and you can not fail to feel the history of the place. For all the activities and the restaurants, the nightlife and the beautiful surroundings, it is impossible not to be fascinated by what went before you.